The simple spiral ring is a great introduction to wire wrap jewelry. Anyone with just a little practice can make a simple ring come to life in just a few minutes. This ring is but one possible way to create a simple design. Using wire to create your jewelry allows you infinite flexiblity in your design. You receive instant feedback, since you see your work come to life right before your eyes. I encourage each of you to use this tutorials as a starting point. Please copy the design, make them over and over and then expand and change them to make them your own. Don't fret if the first few rings don't look like you want them to... be assured that the first fifty or so that I made more than 10 years ago never saw the light of day. After they begin to meet your expectations, you can begin to add your own flair to them.
First The Tools
Creating wire wrapped jewelry really only requires a few simple tools...
1) Pliers & Cutters - You should have on hand the following pliers:
Chain nose
Flat nose
Flush cutters
Also handy:
Double round jaws
You can start with inexpensive pliers, but they will likely wear quickly. Better tools feel better in your hand. If it's at all possible hold them before you buy them to make sure that they feel comfortable
2) Needle files
A small flat file and a small square will get you by. If you get a complete set you will be prepared for any touch up situation
3) Ring Mandrel & Ring sizers.
I like a steel ring mandrel that is marked in 1/4 size increments. You will also need some mechanism to hold your ring mandrel stable while you work with it. For some applications it's okay to hand hold it, but most often it should be securly mounted to your work surface.
For ring sizers there are narrow ones and wide ones. If most of your rings will have narrow shanks, all you need is narrow ring sizers! If you start to expand and make wider shanks you will need a set of wide ones too. Always have your customer start with one that is too big! Otherwise you may get the ring sizer stuck on their fingers!
4) A rawhide mallet
I use a 2" diameter rawhide mallet. This has enough heft to move the metal without leaving marks. It's one of my favorite hand tools.
5) A polishing cloth
Useful to help clean and straighten your wires. Also used to polish the final work of art!
6) Optional items
A butter knife or wide craft knife (not necessarily sharp) to help shape your rings
A pin vise for twisting square wire
Your Materials
For your intial practice use either copper or brass wire. This lets you learn without spending a lot on materials. (Brass wire is available in square for practicing the cabachon ring)
I use 21 gauge square sterling silver or gold filled 1/2 hard wire for most of my rings and bracelets.
The simple spiral ring uses 20 gauge round wire. For these my favorite is to use Niobium wire and anodize it bright colors, however sterling silver or gold filled wire works very well here too!
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